A beautiful country, threatened by the impacts of climate change

~ My time in Kiribati

The thing about visiting the developing world when you’re lucky enough to be living in a developed country such as Australia, is that it’s a rich, eye-opening, building cultural experience and the other thing about it is that it is never what you imagined…unfortunately it isn’t all that ‘flash’ and that’s not to say it can’t be.

As a lot of people do, posting beautiful pictures on social media travelling the world, through developing nations over to developed countries. Now while it might seem all that beautiful and luxurious, the thing that you’re missing is that some careful cropping was done to enhance these photos. That’s not to say these countries are beautiful without such editing, but what’s missing is a lot of the hardship and impacts that threaten countries that are continuing to develop.

The existing effects of climate change and erosion on an outer island

The creation of a man made sea wall to prevent issues to the  inner land and crops 

At the beginning of this year, I was so privileged to be selected to travel to Kiribati, a country I’d never heard of before, to study an issue regarding climate change. Such an unreal experience was even more special knowing that in years to come, this beautiful country may be under water. Now although the group may have planned to resolve the issue of climate change. For me I was not only interested in this primarily, but to experience something that I never had before was just so exciting.

The team!

Development is a hopeful concept that provides a vision for a better future. But maybe what they need isn’t development as such when you think of it in an urban context. However, there love for living day by day, a natural life through sustainable development was one lesson learnt during our journey. This importance of ‘time’ was completely irrelevant and it was not until a few days had passed, that we realised this was a vastly different nation and they don’t follow this western concept of sticking to a time schedule. In Kiribati, it didn’t matter if you were late or if you didn’t finish a task by a certain point or on the day. Eventually things will happen. And hence it was this completely different approach to thinking about happiness, where maybe time is not money which may not equal happiness because that certainly wasn’t the case here. Yet maybe, it’s this community, and relaxation that provides such joy to people with so little which in their eyes may not even be considered little. It was such a beautiful experience to stray away from the norm that we follow at home, and adopting this concept was life changing but not at all in a negative way.

I can’t possibly include every detail about every day from my trip. What I can tell you about though, is that I had a phenomenal experience, learning the most unheard ways of living that ultimately creates joy to many. And no they’re not completely oblivious to the rising sea levels and climate change that’s affecting their country. Yet they’re all and when I say all I mean all so kind, joyful and well hearted people. So I can’t say I was expecting this at all. And to experience this, to make beautiful friendships with the locals, the kids, and teaching them games, learning about ways in which we can help them, not through construction development, but through sea walls, through books, pencils, clothes. The mere basics and money to set these projects in progress is all they need for a brighter future. Quoting some of the locals, they aren’t asking for a change to their lifestyle, they are just asking for some assistance. As an architect, it was surprising to here many of the locals say that they much prefer the maneaba style shelters to allow that constant wind flow through their living areas. The shear use of all natural resources was truly eye-opening and questioned the ways in which we live at home. Why are we constantly building massive sky scrapers? Why are we destroying the natural land on which we have inhabited? There was so many un-answered questions that this experience raised and the least I hope to do is work together to benefit and maybe set in motion some help for this and many other needing countries.

The maneaba – the meeting house. Not only was this used for large meetings, communal gatherings and events. The roof of thatched pandana leaves is held together by rope made from coconut husks which we practiced throughout our course there. The centre point of the roof is metres high while the edges of the roof sit so low that we had to bow when entering in the space. It as so interesting learning how it would keep the area cool and was without a doubt the best place to be during the middle of the day. Learning about these basic yet effective techniques was definitely one of the highlights to the three architecture students, one being myself, that travelled over to Kiribati.

Inside the Maneaba

After weaving part of the roof!

Another one I’d mention is the women’s weaving skills. From coconut tree leaves, beautiful mats, fans, bags/baskets and hats!! The skills that are passed on through generations is just so thrilling, and such a unique cultural tradition. The women are so delicate, weaving for hours on end like it’s the easiest thing in the world. So giving it a shot as I would, well I can safely say it’s the opposite. So much concentration was needed and although it might be repetitive, it was nice to sit in a group, and even with the language barrier just laugh and comment on my flaws as one of the kind-hearted ladies was so patient with my horrible attempt. But I got the hang of it after a while.

The Kiribati ladies patiently teach me how to weave

I could go on and on forever, from sea worm hunting in the sand, to late night coconut crab hunting in the woods, and even something as simple as carving the coconuts. I just hope that I’ve demonstrated such a strong sense of community, beautiful cultural traditions, skills and innovations. It’s not just the people and the land that’s threatened by these very real effects of climate change, but all of this as well.

The local kids teaching us how to make boats!

We must move away from this approach thinking money is what creates happiness because from what I’ve it’s far from it. The experience was one in a life time and I am so grateful that the New Colombo Plan funded my trip, it was extremely insightful and hopefully we can implement a few of our projects to create that sea wall they’ve asked for, give them the necessities for a great education and lend some assistance to help this beautiful and one of a kind country pass through these factors threating their lives.

~ Matthew Johnstone